Alta
Monuments in Alta
The library, the palace, the chapel and two cathedrals, all within four hundred metres of each other on one ridge.

Prisão Académica
The oldest preserved prison in Portugal, in the basement of the most beautiful library in Portugal, and you have to walk through it to reach the books.

Biblioteca Joanina
Portugal’s grandest Baroque interior, entered through a medieval jail, guarded by bats and sold only as a timed slot inside a combined university ticket.

Penedo da Saudade
A cliff-edge garden where Coimbra students have been carving and mounting verses for generations. Free, unenclosed, and the city’s quietest half hour.

Paço das Escolas
Portugal’s first royal household, handed to the University in 1544 and still its ceremonial heart: armoury, faculty colour rooms and two examination halls.

Sala dos Capelos
The first dynasty’s throne room, now the University’s ceremonial hall: 172 grotesque ceiling panels and every Portuguese king except sixty years of Spanish ones.

Capela de São Miguel
The royal palace’s private oratory, still the university chapel: blue-and-white tiles of 1613, gilt Baroque altarpiece, and the plaque that took the crown off Portugal’s kings.

Sé Nova de Coimbra
The Jesuit College church that took a hundred years to build and became Coimbra’s cathedral in 1772 for one reason: it was bigger than the old one. Entry 1 EUR.

Sé Velha de Coimbra
A fortified Romanesque cathedral begun in 1164, with the richest Romanesque carving in Portugal and not a single human figure in it. Entry 3 EUR.

Torre da Universidade
Coimbra’s postcard silhouette, and it is shut. The university states the tower is closed with no date; here is the 184-step climb you cannot do, and what to do instead.