/* Explore-<City> engine stylesheet. Tokens are substituted from siteconfig.THEME
   at build time (build_css) — edit style.src.css, never style.css. */
:root{
  --chalk:#FAFAF8;--chalk-warm:#F5F3EF;--card:#FEFEFD;--ink:#2D2A26;--ink-2:#4A4640;
  --line:#E8E4DD;--terra:#C45C26;--terra-dk:#98481B;--azul:#1E5C7B;--azul-dk:#164459;
  --gold:#D4A853;--gold-dk:#7A5A18;--gold-deep:#8F6A27;
  --font-display:"Spectral",Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;--font-body:"Literata",Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --shell:80rem;--measure:48rem;--measure-wide:56rem;--r:.5rem;--r-lg:.75rem;--r-xl:1rem;--r-2xl:1.75rem;
  --shadow-sm:0 1px 2px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.06);--shadow-md:0 8px 24px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.10);--shadow-lg:0 18px 40px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.16);
  /* P3: elevation ring — replaces depth-only borders on surfaces.
     Structural borders (dividers, table cells, inputs) stay real borders. */
  --ring:0 0 0 1px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.07),0 1px 2px -1px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.06),0 2px 4px 0 rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.04);
  --ring-hover:0 0 0 1px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.10),0 6px 16px -4px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.12),0 2px 6px 0 rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.06);
  --focus:0 0 0 2px var(--chalk),0 0 0 4px rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.8);
  --header-h:4rem;
  /* rgb channels of the THEME colours, so every tint follows the palette */
  --terra-rgb:196,92,38;--azul-rgb:30,92,123;--gold-rgb:212,168,83;
  --chalk-rgb:250,250,248;--warm-rgb:245,243,239;--ink-rgb:45,42,38;
}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--chalk);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--font-body);font-size:1.0625rem;line-height:1.65;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing:grayscale}
img,svg{display:block;max-width:100%}
img{height:auto}
/* P11: hairline containment so photos don't bleed into the chalk ground.
   Neutral black at 10% — a tinted outline reads as dirt on the edge.
   outline (not border) so intrinsic size is untouched. */
.card-media img,.hero-photo img,.author-portrait img,.figure img,.prose img{outline:1px solid rgba(0,0,0,.1);outline-offset:-1px}
a{color:var(--terra);text-decoration:none}
a:hover{color:var(--terra-dk)}
h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:400;line-height:1.15;margin:0;color:var(--ink);text-wrap:balance}
p{margin:0 0 1em}
ul,ol{margin:0 0 1em;padding-left:1.25em}
button{font:inherit;color:inherit;background:none;border:0;cursor:pointer}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%}
.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0)}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px;top:0;background:var(--terra);color:#fff;padding:.5rem 1rem;border-radius:var(--r);z-index:200}
.skip:focus{left:1rem;top:1rem}
.shell{max-width:var(--shell);margin:0 auto;padding:0 1rem}
@media(min-width:640px){.shell{padding:0 1.5rem}}
@media(min-width:1024px){.shell{padding:0 2rem}}
.measure{max-width:var(--measure);margin:0 auto}
.measure-wide{max-width:var(--measure-wide);margin:0 auto}
.muted{color:var(--ink-2);text-wrap:pretty}
.ic{display:inline-flex;width:1.25em;height:1.25em;vertical-align:-.25em}
.ic svg{width:100%;height:100%}
.ic-xs{display:inline-flex;width:1em;height:1em;vertical-align:-.15em}
.ic-xs svg{width:100%;height:100%}
.ic-sm{display:inline-flex;width:1.15em;height:1.15em;vertical-align:-.2em}
.ic-sm svg{width:100%;height:100%}
.ic-md{display:inline-flex;width:1.75rem;height:1.75rem;color:var(--terra)}
.ic-md svg{width:100%;height:100%}
.ic-cur{display:inline-block;font-weight:600;color:var(--terra);margin-right:.1rem}

/* P9: figures that sit in a column or swap between cards must not
   reflow their neighbours — tabular only, never on prose. */
.price,.from,.rev,.stat-n,.vl-n,.rank-n,.dl-grid dd,.facts dd,
.ranked td,.compare td,table td{font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}

/* ---------- typography ---------- */
.h2{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,3.6vw,3rem);letter-spacing:-.01em;margin-bottom:.5rem}
.h2-sm{font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.6vw,2rem)}
.h2.light{color:#fff}
.h3{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.5rem;font-weight:400;margin:0 0 1.25rem;line-height:1.2}
.lede{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:1.0625rem;max-width:44rem;margin:.25rem 0 0;text-wrap:pretty}
.lede-lg{font-size:1.2rem;line-height:1.6}
.eyebrow{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-size:.8rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.05em;padding:.3rem .8rem;border-radius:999px;margin-bottom:.9rem;background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.1);color:var(--terra)}
.eyebrow.tone-azulejo{background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.1);color:var(--azul)}
.eyebrow.tone-gold{background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.18);color:var(--gold-dk)}
.eyebrow-plain{font-size:.78rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terra-dk);margin:0 0 .35rem}
.more-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;font-weight:500;white-space:nowrap}
.more-inline{font-weight:500;white-space:nowrap}
.section{padding:4rem 0}
@media(min-width:1024px){.section{padding:6rem 0}}
.section-sm{padding:2.25rem 0}
.section-warm{background:var(--chalk-warm);border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
/* Sections that follow a full-bleed band or another section's generous bottom
   padding don't need the whole 4/6rem top as well. */
.section-tight{padding-top:2.25rem}
@media(min-width:1024px){.section-tight{padding-top:3rem}}
.section-alt{background:rgba(var(--warm-rgb),.55);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.section-gold{background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.07);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.section-head{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:flex-end;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem 2rem;margin-bottom:2rem}
.section-head .disclosure{margin:0}
.disclosure{font-size:.78rem;color:var(--ink-2);line-height:1.5;max-width:34rem}

/* ---------- grids ---------- */
.grid{display:grid;gap:1.5rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:640px){.grid-2,.grid-3,.grid-4{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}
@media(min-width:1024px){.grid-3{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.grid-4{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr)}}
.tiles{gap:1rem}

/* ---------- header ---------- */
.site-header{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:60;background:rgba(var(--chalk-rgb),.94);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.nav-bar{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:var(--header-h)}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.75rem;color:var(--ink)}
.brand .mark{width:2.4rem;height:2.4rem;flex:none}
.brand-text{display:flex;flex-direction:column;line-height:1.1}
.brand-name{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.15rem}
.brand-tag{font-size:.66rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terra);margin-top:.15rem}
.nav-desktop{display:none;align-items:center;gap:.15rem}
@media(min-width:900px){.nav-desktop{display:flex}.nav-mobile{display:none!important}}
.nav-btn{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;padding:.5rem .9rem;border-radius:var(--r);font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:500;color:var(--ink-2);transition:background .15s,color .15s}
.nav-btn:hover,.nav-dd.is-open .nav-btn{background:var(--chalk-warm);color:var(--terra)}
.tone-azulejo .nav-btn:hover,.nav-dd.tone-azulejo.is-open .nav-btn{color:var(--azul)}
.tone-gold .nav-btn:hover,.nav-dd.tone-gold.is-open .nav-btn{color:var(--gold-dk)}
.nav-dd{position:relative}
.dd-menu{position:absolute;top:100%;left:0;padding-top:.5rem;opacity:0;visibility:hidden;transform:translateY(4px);transition:opacity .18s,transform .18s,visibility .18s;z-index:70}
.nav-dd:hover .dd-menu,.nav-dd.is-open .dd-menu,.nav-dd:focus-within .dd-menu{opacity:1;visibility:visible;transform:none}
.nav-dd:nth-last-child(-n+2) .dd-menu{left:auto;right:0}
.dd-panel{width:19rem;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r-lg);box-shadow:var(--shadow-lg);overflow:hidden;padding:.5rem}
.dd-sec{padding:.25rem}
.dd-sec+.dd-sec{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:.25rem;padding-top:.5rem}
.dd-head{font-size:.7rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);padding:.4rem .75rem .25rem}
.dd-item{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;gap:.65rem;padding:.7rem .75rem;min-height:2.5rem;border-radius:var(--r);color:var(--ink);line-height:1.25;transition:background .15s}
.dd-item:hover{background:var(--chalk-warm);color:var(--terra)}
.tone-azulejo .dd-item:hover{color:var(--azul)}
.tone-gold .dd-item:hover{color:var(--gold-dk)}
.dd-item b{display:block;font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem}
.dd-item small{display:block;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.78rem;margin-top:.1rem}
/* nav row icon: outline glyph, recoloured by state via currentColor (never a
   second asset). Muted at rest so the label leads; takes the group tone on hover. */
.dd-ic{flex:none;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;width:1.15rem;margin-top:.15rem;color:var(--terra);opacity:.75;transition:opacity .15s ease-out}
.dd-item:hover .dd-ic,.m-item:hover .dd-ic{opacity:1}
.tone-azulejo .dd-ic{color:var(--azul)}
.tone-gold .dd-ic{color:var(--gold-dk)}
.dd-foot .dd-ic{opacity:.9}
.dd-foot .dd-item b{color:inherit}
.month-pills{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.35rem;padding:.25rem .5rem .5rem}
.pill-month{padding:.45rem .7rem;min-height:2.25rem;font-size:.75rem}
.pill-month.is-good{background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.12);color:var(--azul);border-color:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.3)}
.pill-month.is-now{background:var(--azul);color:#fff;border-color:var(--azul)}
/* language switch: two-letter toggle beside search */
.lang-switch{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.1rem;margin-left:.25rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:.15rem;background:var(--card)}
.lang-opt{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;min-width:2rem;padding:.2rem .45rem;border-radius:999px;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--ink-2);line-height:1.4}
.lang-opt:hover{color:var(--terra-dk)}
.lang-opt.is-on{background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.12);color:var(--terra-dk)}
.nav-mobile .lang-switch{margin-right:.35rem}
.nav-search{min-height:2.5rem;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;margin-left:.5rem;height:2.3rem;padding:0 .85rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem;font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500}
.nav-search:hover{border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4);background:var(--chalk-warm);color:var(--ink)}
.nav-mobile{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.25rem}
.m-icon{width:2.75rem;height:2.75rem;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border-radius:var(--r);color:var(--ink)}
.m-icon svg{width:1.5rem;height:1.5rem}
.mobile-menu{position:fixed;left:0;right:0;top:var(--header-h);bottom:0;overflow-y:auto;background:rgba(var(--chalk-rgb),.97);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-top:1px solid var(--line);z-index:65}
.mobile-menu[hidden]{display:none}
.m-sec+.m-sec{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.m-btn{display:flex;width:100%;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:.9rem 1.25rem;font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:500}
.m-btn svg{width:1.1rem;height:1.1rem;transition:transform .2s}
.m-btn[aria-expanded="true"] svg{transform:rotate(180deg)}
.m-body{padding-bottom:.5rem}
.m-head{padding:.6rem 1.25rem .2rem;font-size:.7rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2)}
.m-item{display:block;padding:.6rem 1.25rem;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem}
.m-item:hover{background:var(--chalk-warm);color:var(--terra)}
.m-item{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.6rem}
.m-strong{color:var(--terra);font-weight:600}
.mobile-menu .month-pills{padding:.25rem 1.25rem .75rem}

/* ---------- buttons, badges, pills ---------- */
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:.5rem;padding:.7rem 1.25rem;border-radius:var(--r);font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;font-size:1rem;line-height:1.2;border:1px solid transparent;transition:background .15s,border-color .15s,color .15s,box-shadow .15s,transform .15s;white-space:nowrap}
/* P12: press = scale .96, transition scale only. */
.btn{transition-property:background,border-color,color,box-shadow,scale;transition-duration:.15s;transition-timing-function:ease-out}
.btn:active{scale:.96}
.btn-primary{background:var(--terra);color:#fff;box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm)}
.btn-primary:hover{background:var(--terra-dk);color:#fff;box-shadow:var(--shadow-md)}
.btn-gold{background:var(--gold-deep);color:#fff;box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm)}
.btn-gold:hover{background:var(--gold-deep);color:#fff;box-shadow:var(--shadow-md);filter:brightness(.93)}
.btn-ghost{border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4);color:var(--terra);background:transparent}
.btn-ghost:hover{background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.08);border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.7)}
.btn-ghost-light{border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.45);color:#fff;background:rgba(255,255,255,.08)}
.btn-ghost-light:hover{border-color:#fff;background:rgba(255,255,255,.16);color:#fff}
.btn-glass{background:rgba(255,255,255,.14);border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.35);color:#fff;backdrop-filter:blur(6px)}
.btn-glass:hover{background:rgba(255,255,255,.26);color:#fff}
.btn-lg{padding:.85rem 1.4rem;font-size:1.05rem}
.btn-block{width:100%}
.badge{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.3rem;padding:.25rem .7rem;border-radius:999px;font-size:.75rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.2;white-space:nowrap}
.badge-terracotta{background:var(--terra);color:#fff}
.badge-gold{background:var(--gold);color:#3b2c0c}
.badge-azulejo{background:var(--azul);color:#fff}
.badge-azulejo-soft{background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.12);color:var(--azul)}
.badge-neutral{background:rgba(255,255,255,.92);color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line)}
.badge-dark{background:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.86);color:#fff}
.pill{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;padding:.55rem .95rem;min-height:2.5rem;border-radius:999px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--chalk-warm);color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.85rem;font-weight:500;line-height:1.2;transition:background .15s,color .15s,border-color .15s}
a.pill:active{scale:.96}
a.pill:hover{color:var(--ink);border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4);background:#fff}
.pill.is-active{background:var(--terra);color:#fff;border-color:var(--terra)}
.pill-xs{padding:.2rem .6rem;font-size:.72rem}
.pillrow{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.45rem;margin:.5rem 0 1rem}
.tag-label{display:block;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.5rem}
.browse-by{margin:1.5rem 0 .5rem}

/* ---------- hero (home + closing) ---------- */
.hero{position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;display:flex;align-items:center}
.hero-home{min-height:650px}
.hero-closing{min-height:360px}
.hero-img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.hero-shade{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.75) 0%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.6) 50%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.95) 100%)}
.hero-shade::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.7),rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.2) 50%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.5))}
.hero-inner{position:relative;z-index:1;width:100%;padding-top:4rem;padding-bottom:3rem}
.hero h1,.hero .h2{color:#fff}
.hero-home h1{font-size:clamp(3.2rem,8vw,6rem);line-height:1;margin-bottom:1.25rem;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.hero-home .h1-a,.hero-home .h1-b{display:block}
.hero-home .h1-b{color:var(--gold)}
.hero-lede{font-size:1.15rem;line-height:1.65;max-width:40rem;color:rgba(255,255,255,.92)}
.hero-home .eyebrow{background:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.55);color:var(--gold);border:1px solid rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.35)}
.glass{margin:1.5rem 0 1rem;padding:1.35rem;border-radius:var(--r-2xl);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.12);background:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.75);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);box-shadow:0 24px 60px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}
@media(min-width:640px){.glass{padding:1.6rem}}
.hero-btns{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.75rem}
.glass-label{font-size:.75rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:rgba(255,255,255,.85);margin:1.25rem 0 .75rem}
.vl-grid{display:grid;gap:.75rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:640px){.vl-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}}
.vl-card{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.8rem;min-height:5.5rem;padding:.9rem 1rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.25);background:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.78);color:#fff;transition:border-color .15s,background .15s}
.vl-card:hover{border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.55);background:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.9);color:#fff}
.vl-card.is-featured{border-color:var(--gold);background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.16);box-shadow:0 18px 40px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}
.vl-card.is-featured:hover{background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.24)}
.vl-n{width:2.4rem;height:2.4rem;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border-radius:var(--r);background:rgba(255,255,255,.12);font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;color:var(--gold);flex:none}
.vl-card.is-featured .vl-n{background:var(--gold);color:#3b2c0c}
.vl-card b{display:block;font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:600}
.vl-card small{display:block;color:rgba(255,255,255,.75);font-size:.85rem}
.updated{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-size:.8rem;color:rgba(255,255,255,.75);margin:0}

/* ---------- entity hero + text hero ---------- */
.hero-entity{min-height:450px;align-items:flex-end}
@media(min-width:640px){.hero-entity{min-height:500px}}
.hero-entity .hero-inner{padding-top:3rem;padding-bottom:2.5rem}
.hero-entity h1{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,5.5vw,4.25rem);margin:.9rem 0 1rem}
.hero-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem 1.5rem;margin-bottom:1.25rem;font-size:.98rem;color:rgba(255,255,255,.92)}
.hero-meta-item{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem}
.hero-meta-item .ic-sm{color:var(--gold)}
.hero-text{padding:2.5rem 0 1.5rem}
.hero-kicker{margin:0;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terra-dk)}
.hero-kicker.tone-azulejo{color:var(--azul)}
.hero-kicker.tone-gold{color:var(--gold-dk)}
.hero-rule{width:3.5rem;height:2px;margin:1.5rem 0;border:0;background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.55)}
.hub-intro{margin:2.25rem auto 3rem}
.hub-intro>p:first-child{margin-top:0}
.hub-intro>p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}
.hero-text h1{font-size:clamp(2.2rem,5vw,3.6rem);margin:.5rem 0 1rem;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.author-hero{display:flex;gap:1.5rem;align-items:flex-start;flex-wrap:wrap}
.crumb-bar{background:var(--chalk-warm);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.crumbs{display:flex;flex-wrap:nowrap;gap:.4rem;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:.65rem 0;font-size:.9rem;overflow-x:auto;white-space:nowrap;color:var(--ink-2)}
.crumbs li+li::before{content:"\203A";margin-right:.4rem;color:var(--line);font-size:1.1em}
.crumbs a{color:var(--ink-2)}
.crumbs a:hover{color:var(--terra)}
.crumbs span{color:var(--ink);font-weight:500}

/* ---------- byline / subnav ---------- */
.byline{display:flex;gap:1rem;align-items:flex-start;margin:2rem 0 1rem}
.avatar{width:3.5rem;height:3.5rem;border-radius:50%;aspect-ratio:1/1;object-fit:cover;background:var(--chalk-warm);flex:none}
.avatar-sm{width:2.75rem;height:2.75rem;border-radius:50%;aspect-ratio:1/1;object-fit:cover;background:var(--chalk-warm);flex:none}
.avatar-lg{width:4.5rem;height:4.5rem;border-radius:50%;aspect-ratio:1/1;object-fit:cover;background:var(--chalk-warm);flex:none}
.avatar-xl{width:7rem;height:7rem;border-radius:50%;aspect-ratio:1/1;object-fit:cover;background:var(--chalk-warm);flex:none}
.img-empty{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;background:var(--chalk-warm);color:var(--line);width:100%;height:100%}
.by-label{font-size:.78rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.by-name{font-weight:600;color:var(--ink)}
.by-name:hover{color:var(--terra);text-decoration:underline}
.by-bio{font-size:.9rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:.15rem 0 .3rem;line-height:1.45}
.upd{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:500}
.back-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-size:.92rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:.5rem 0 1.25rem}
.back-link:hover{color:var(--terra)}
.subnav{position:sticky;top:var(--header-h);z-index:40;background:rgba(var(--chalk-rgb),.96);backdrop-filter:blur(8px);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r-xl);padding:.9rem 1.15rem;margin:0 0 2rem;box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm)}
.subnav-label{font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terra);margin:0 0 .6rem}
.pill-row{display:flex;gap:.45rem;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;padding-bottom:.1rem}
.pill-row::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
@media(min-width:768px){.pill-row{flex-wrap:wrap}}
.pill-nav{white-space:nowrap;flex:none}
.pill-nav.is-active{background:var(--terra);color:#fff;border-color:var(--terra)}

/* ---------- prose ---------- */
.prose{font-size:1.0625rem;line-height:1.7}
.prose>p:first-of-type,.prose .prose-sec:first-of-type>h2+p{font-size:1.125rem}
.prose h2{font-size:1.75rem;font-weight:600;margin:2.5rem 0 1rem;scroll-margin-top:9rem}
.prose h3{font-size:1.25rem;font-weight:600;margin:1.75rem 0 .6rem}
.prose h4{font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:600;margin:1.25rem 0 .4rem}
.prose a{text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4);text-underline-offset:2px}
.prose a:hover{text-decoration-color:var(--terra)}
.prose blockquote{margin:1.5rem 0;padding:.25rem 0 .25rem 1.25rem;border-left:3px solid var(--gold);font-style:italic;color:var(--ink-2)}
.prose figure{margin:1.75rem 0}
.prose figcaption,.fig-hero figcaption{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin-top:.5rem}
.prose img,.fig{border-radius:var(--r-lg);width:100%}
.fig-hero{margin:0 0 2rem}
.prose .callout,.callout{background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.06);border:1px solid rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.2);border-radius:var(--r-lg);padding:1rem 1.25rem;margin:1.5rem 0}
.callout.azulejo{background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.06);border-color:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.2)}
.callout.gold{background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.1);border-color:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.35)}
.callout p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}
.prose-sec{scroll-margin-top:9rem}
.table-wrap{overflow-x:auto;margin:1.25rem 0;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r-lg)}
.table-wrap table,.prose table{min-width:32rem;font-size:.95rem}
.prose table{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r-lg);margin:1.25rem 0;display:block;overflow-x:auto}
th,td{text-align:left;padding:.65rem .85rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
th{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;background:var(--chalk-warm);font-size:.85rem;letter-spacing:.02em}
tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}
tr.is-now td{background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.07);font-weight:500}
ul.check,ul.cross{list-style:none;padding:0}
ul.check li,ul.cross li{position:relative;padding-left:1.6rem;margin-bottom:.45rem}
ul.check li::before{content:"\2713";position:absolute;left:0;color:var(--terra);font-weight:700}
ul.cross li::before{content:"\2013";position:absolute;left:0;color:var(--ink-2)}
.tagrow{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.5rem;margin:2.5rem 0;padding-top:1.25rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.tagrow .tag-label{margin:0 .5rem 0 0}

/* ---------- facts, glance, practical ---------- */
.facts-sec,.glance,.practical,.tips-sec,.faq,.sources,.near,.walks-pass,.inc,.reserve,.jumps,.nb-block,.dish-sec,.summary,.before{margin:3rem 0;scroll-margin-top:9rem}
/* Same rhythm for sections that carry only an id (#ingredients, #where-to-taste,
   #specialities, #route, #map): without this they butt straight onto the block above.
   Adjacent margins collapse, so a classed neighbour still yields 3rem, not 6. */
.measure>section+section,.measure-wide>section+section{margin-top:3rem}
.glance{margin-top:1.5rem}
.facts{display:grid;gap:1.25rem;grid-template-columns:1fr;padding:1.5rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.05);border:1px solid rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.15)}
@media(min-width:640px){.facts{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}}
.fact-k{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0 0 .35rem}
.fact-v{font-weight:500;margin:0;line-height:1.4}
.dl-grid{display:grid;gap:1.25rem 2rem;grid-template-columns:1fr;margin:0}
@media(min-width:640px){.dl-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.dl-grid .span2{grid-column:span 2}}
.dl-grid dt{font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.35rem}
.dl-grid dd{margin:0;font-weight:500;line-height:1.45;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.glance .dl-grid{padding:1.5rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line)}
/* practical panel: one tinted card holding facts, map and outbound links */
.practical-card{padding:1.6rem;border-radius:var(--r-2xl);background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.05);border:1px solid rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.15)}
@media(min-width:768px){.practical-card{padding:2rem}}
/* plain variant: same panel on a white surface (hotel pages) */
.practical-card.is-plain{background:var(--card);border-color:var(--line)}
.practical-card.is-plain .practical-links{border-top-color:var(--line)}
.practical-card.is-plain .practical-links .btn{background:rgba(var(--warm-rgb),.7)}
.practical-card>.dl-grid{padding:0;border:0;background:none}
.dl-grid dt{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem}
.dl-grid dt .ic-xs{color:var(--terra);flex:none}
.map-note{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;gap:.4rem;margin:.6rem 0 0;font-size:.82rem;line-height:1.4;color:var(--ink-2)}
.map-note .ic-xs{color:var(--terra);flex:none;margin-top:.15rem}
.practical-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.6rem;margin-top:1.5rem;padding-top:1.35rem;border-top:1px solid rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.18)}
.btn-sm{padding:.55rem .95rem;font-size:.92rem}
.practical-links .btn{background:var(--card)}
.practical .h3,.facts-sec .h3{margin-bottom:1.25rem}
.map-link{margin-left:.5rem;font-size:.9rem;text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4)}
.map-embed{position:relative;z-index:0;isolation:isolate;margin-top:1.5rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--chalk-warm)}
.map-placeholder{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;height:100%;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.9rem;padding:1rem;text-align:center}
.leaflet-container{font:inherit}

/* ---------- insider tips ---------- */
.tips-sec{padding:1.75rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:1px solid rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.2);background:rgba(var(--warm-rgb),.5);box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm)}
.tips-head{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem 2rem;padding-bottom:1.25rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin-bottom:1.25rem}
.tips-head .h3{margin:0}
.filed{display:flex;gap:.75rem;align-items:flex-start;max-width:22rem}
.filed-label{font-size:.7rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2)}
.filed-name{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;color:var(--ink)}
.filed-beat{font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2)}
.filed p{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:.25rem 0 0;line-height:1.4;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden}
.tips-grid{display:grid;gap:1rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:640px){.tips-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}
.tip{padding:1.25rem 1.35rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:1px solid var(--line);background:rgba(var(--warm-rgb),.45)}
.tip.tone-gold{border-color:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.45);background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.06)}
.tip.tone-terracotta{border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4);background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.05)}
.tip.tone-azulejo{border-color:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.35);background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.05)}
.tip-label{display:inline-block;font-size:.68rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:.25rem .6rem;border-radius:999px;background:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.06);color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.75rem}
.tone-gold .tip-label{background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.25);color:var(--gold-dk)}
.tone-terracotta .tip-label{background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.14);color:var(--terra-dk)}
.tone-azulejo .tip-label{background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.14);color:var(--azul)}
.tip h3{font-size:1.15rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .6rem}
.tip p{font-size:.95rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0;line-height:1.55}

/* ---------- aside gold, FAQ, sources, near ---------- */
.aside-gold{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem 2rem;margin:3rem 0;padding:1.5rem 1.75rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:2px solid rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.45);background:linear-gradient(135deg,rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.12),rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.03))}
.aside-gold h3{font-size:1.35rem;font-weight:600;margin:.25rem 0 .35rem}
.aside-gold p{margin:0;color:var(--ink-2);max-width:32rem}
.faq-list{display:grid;gap:.75rem}
/* P16: padding moves onto <summary> so the whole row is the hit target
   (it measured 20px tall before — the padding sat on the parent). */
.faq-item{padding:0;border-radius:var(--r-lg);border:0;background:var(--card);box-shadow:var(--ring);transition:box-shadow .15s ease-out}
.faq-item:hover,.faq-item[open]{box-shadow:var(--ring-hover)}
.faq-item summary{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;cursor:pointer;list-style:none;padding:1.15rem 1.5rem;min-height:3.25rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg)}
.faq-item summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq-item summary h3{font-family:var(--font-body);font-size:1rem;font-weight:500;margin:0}
.faq-item summary .ic-sm{color:var(--ink-2);transition:transform .2s;flex:none}
.faq-item[open] summary .ic-sm{transform:rotate(180deg)}
.faq-a{margin:0 1.5rem;padding:1rem 0 1.35rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--ink-2);line-height:1.65}
.faq-a p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}
.sources ol{padding-left:1.25rem}
.sources li{margin-bottom:.4rem}
.src-note{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.92rem}
.near{padding:1.5rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);border:1px solid var(--line);background:rgba(var(--warm-rgb),.55)}
.near-grid{display:grid;gap:1.5rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:640px){.near-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}
.near h3{font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .15rem}
.near .muted{font-size:.88rem;margin-bottom:.6rem}
.near-list{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 0 .75rem}
.near-list li{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;padding:.45rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.95rem}
.near-list span{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.85rem;white-space:nowrap}
.walk-rows{display:grid;gap:.75rem}
/* pre-existing: the row could not compress below its content and pushed the
   document 43px wide at 320px. Wrap, and let the flex children shrink. */
.walk-row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:.5rem 1rem;padding:1rem 1.25rem;border:0;border-radius:var(--r-lg);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);box-shadow:var(--ring);transition:box-shadow .15s ease-out,transform .15s ease-out}
.walk-row:hover{box-shadow:var(--ring-hover)}
.walk-row:active{scale:.99}
.walk-row h3{font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:600;margin:.2rem 0}
.walk-row p{margin:0;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.walk-row>div{min-width:0;flex:1 1 12rem}
.walk-meta{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);white-space:nowrap;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.inc-grid{display:grid;gap:1.5rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:640px){.inc-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}
.inc h3{font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .6rem}
.reserve{padding:1.5rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);border:1px solid rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.25);background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.05)}

/* ---------- cards ---------- */
.card{position:relative;display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%;background:var(--card);border:0;border-radius:var(--r-lg);overflow:hidden;color:var(--ink);box-shadow:var(--ring);transition:transform .2s ease-out,box-shadow .2s ease-out}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:var(--ring-hover);color:var(--ink)}
.card:active{transform:translateY(-1px) scale(.99)}
.card-media{position:relative;height:12rem;overflow:hidden;background:var(--chalk-warm);flex:none}
.card-media.tall{height:14rem}
.card-lg .card-media{height:17rem}
.card-sm .card-media{height:10rem}
.card-media img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .35s ease-out}
.card:hover .card-media img{transform:scale(1.04)}
.media-shade{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),0) 30%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.45) 65%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.95))}
.on-media{position:absolute;left:1rem;right:1rem;bottom:.85rem;color:#fff;font-size:1.3rem;font-weight:600;text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.6);line-height:1.2}
.card-lg .on-media{font-size:1.75rem}
.card>.badge{position:absolute;top:.75rem;left:.75rem;z-index:2}
.badges{position:absolute;top:.75rem;left:.75rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.35rem;z-index:1}
.card-media>.badge{position:absolute;top:.75rem;left:.75rem;z-index:1}
.card-media>.date-badge{left:auto;right:.75rem}
.badges-inline{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.35rem;margin:.25rem 0 .5rem}
.card-body{text-wrap:pretty;display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1;padding:1.1rem 1.25rem 1.25rem}
.card-body h3{font-size:1.3rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .5rem;line-height:1.2}
.card-sm .card-body h3{font-size:1.1rem}
.card-body .kicker{font-size:.7rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0 0 .4rem}
.card-text{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.5;margin:0 0 .75rem;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:3;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden}
.card-price,.meta-line{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0 0 .5rem}
.card-price .ic-xs{color:var(--terra)}
.card-foot{margin-top:auto;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:.5rem;padding-top:.75rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.88rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.card-foot .explore{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.3rem;color:var(--terra);font-weight:500}
.card-photo .card-body{padding-top:.9rem;display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1 1 auto}
.card-photo .card-body:empty{display:none}
/* photo card, reference anatomy: tag top-right, clamped lede, meta row, foot */
.card-media>.badge.card-tag{left:auto;right:.75rem}
.card-photo .card-text{display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden;margin-bottom:.85rem}
.card-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.4rem 1.25rem;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0 0 .85rem}
.card-meta .meta-item{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.card-meta .ic-xs{color:var(--terra);flex:none}
.card-meta .ic-cur{margin-right:0}
.card-photo .card-foot{margin-top:auto}
/* restaurant card: pills on the photo, rating beside the name, dish chips */
.card-media>.card-tags{position:absolute;top:.75rem;right:.75rem;left:auto;z-index:1;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:flex-end;gap:.35rem;max-width:calc(100% - 1.5rem)}
.card-walk .card-media{height:15rem}
.card-walk .on-media{font-size:1.45rem;right:1.1rem;left:1.1rem}
.card-walk .card-meta{gap:.4rem 1.4rem}
.card-walk .card-foot{margin-top:auto}
.grid-2 .card-walk .card-media{height:21rem}
.grid-2 .card-walk .on-media{font-size:1.6rem}
.card-rest .card-media{height:13rem}
.pill-media{position:absolute;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;max-width:calc(100% - 1.6rem);padding:.35rem .8rem;border-radius:999px;font-size:.82rem;font-weight:500;line-height:1.3;z-index:1;box-shadow:0 2px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.22)}
.pill-cuisine{top:.8rem;left:.8rem;background:var(--gold-deep);color:#fff}
.pill-price{bottom:.8rem;left:.8rem;background:#fff;color:var(--ink)}
.pill-price .ic-cur{color:var(--gold-deep);margin-right:0}
.rest-head{display:flex;align-items:baseline;justify-content:space-between;gap:.75rem;margin-bottom:.45rem}
.rest-head h3{margin:0;font-size:1.15rem;font-weight:600}
.rest-head .rate{flex:none;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--ink-2);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;white-space:nowrap}
.rest-head .rate b{font-weight:600;color:var(--ink)}
.card-rest .card-text{display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden;margin-bottom:.5rem}
.rate-src{margin:0 0 .7rem;font-size:.82rem;color:var(--ink-2);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.35rem;margin-bottom:.9rem}
.chip{display:inline-block;padding:.25rem .6rem;border-radius:var(--r);background:rgba(var(--warm-rgb),.85);border:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.78rem;line-height:1.35;color:var(--ink-2)}
.chip-more{background:transparent;color:var(--ink-2);opacity:.75}
.card-rest .card-body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1 1 auto}
.card-rest .card-foot{margin-top:auto}
/* dish card + the split context panel that holds the row */
.card-dish .card-media{height:12rem}
.pill-cat{top:.8rem;left:.8rem}
.pill-dark{background:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.88);color:#fff}
.pill-gold{background:var(--gold-deep);color:#fff}
.card-dish .card-body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1 1 auto}
.card-dish h3{font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .4rem;text-wrap:balance}
.card-dish .card-text{display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden;margin-bottom:.7rem}
.card-dish .chips{margin-bottom:.9rem}
.card-dish .card-foot{margin-top:auto;border-top:0;padding-top:.25rem}
/* hotel card: category + price pills on the photo, class stars beside the name */
.card-hotel .card-media{height:11.5rem}
.pill-terra{background:var(--terra);color:#fff}
.card-hotel .card-body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1 1 auto}
.card-hotel .card-text{display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden;margin-bottom:.7rem}
.stars-fixed{flex:none;color:var(--gold);letter-spacing:.05em;font-size:.95rem;white-space:nowrap}
.card-hotel .chips{margin-bottom:.9rem}
.card-hotel .card-foot{margin-top:auto}
/* neighbourhood card: everything overlaid on the photo, top block + bottom block */
.card-nb{position:relative;display:block;aspect-ratio:4/5;min-height:22rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);overflow:hidden;color:#fff;box-shadow:var(--ring);transition:transform .2s,box-shadow .2s}
.card-nb:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:var(--ring-hover),var(--shadow-md);color:#fff}
.card-nb .card-media{position:absolute;inset:0;height:100%;border-radius:0}
.card-nb .card-media img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .5s ease}
.card-nb:hover .card-media img{transform:scale(1.05)}
.nb-shade{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.82) 0%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.70) 30%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.50) 45%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.86) 64%,rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.96) 100%)}
.nb-body{position:relative;height:100%;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;padding:1.25rem 1.3rem 1.35rem}
.card-nb .nb-badge{position:absolute;top:1.1rem;right:1.1rem;background:var(--terra);color:#fff;z-index:2}
.card-nb h3{color:#fff;font-size:1.55rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.12;margin:0 0 .5rem;padding-right:5.5rem;text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.55);text-wrap:balance}
.nb-sum{margin:0;font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.45;color:#fff;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden;text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}
.nb-stats{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.3rem .9rem;font-size:.82rem;color:#fff;margin-bottom:.5rem}
.nb-stat{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}
.nb-stat .ic-xs{color:var(--gold)}
.nb-char{margin:0 0 .7rem;font-style:italic;font-size:.85rem;line-height:1.35;color:var(--gold);display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden;text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.6)}
.nb-go{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-weight:500;font-size:.92rem;color:#fff;text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}
.card-nb:focus-visible{outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 0 3px rgba(255,255,255,.9),var(--shadow-md)}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.card-nb,.card-nb .card-media img{transition:none}.card-nb:hover{transform:none}.card-nb:hover .card-media img{transform:none}}
.card-event .kicker{margin-bottom:.25rem}
.card-event .pillrow{margin:.25rem 0 .75rem}
.card-article .card-media{height:11rem}
.card-article h3{font-size:1.15rem}
.card-article .card-body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1 1 auto}
.card-article .card-text{margin-bottom:.9rem}
.card-article .read-link{margin-top:auto;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;color:var(--terra);font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem}
.card-article .read-link .ic-xs{transition:transform .2s}
.card-article:hover .read-link .ic-xs{transform:translateX(2px)}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.card-article:hover .read-link .ic-xs{transform:none}}
/* tour cards */
.card-tour .card-body .card-text{-webkit-line-clamp:4}
.meta-row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.35rem;margin-bottom:.75rem}
.meta-chip{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.3rem;padding:.2rem .6rem;border-radius:999px;background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.08);color:var(--azul);font-size:.75rem;font-weight:600}
/* skip-the-line: the one claim worth pulling out of the meta row */
.skip-flag{display:inline-flex;align-self:flex-start;align-items:center;gap:.3rem;margin:0 0 .7rem;padding:.3rem .7rem;border-radius:999px;
  background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.1);color:var(--terra);font-size:.8rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.2}
.skip-flag .ic-xs{transform:translateY(.05em)}
/* duration left, price right, on one baseline */
.price-row{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:.75rem;margin:auto 0 .55rem}
.dur{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.85rem;white-space:nowrap}
.price-col{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-end;text-align:right;min-width:0}
.from{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.4rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.1;white-space:nowrap}
.value-note{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.76rem;line-height:1.3;margin-top:.15rem;text-wrap:pretty}
/* rating on its own row, reading left-to-right like the figure it is */
.rating{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0 0 .9rem}
.rating b{color:var(--ink);font-size:.95rem}
.stars{position:relative;display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;letter-spacing:.06em;line-height:1;vertical-align:-.05em}
.stars-bg{color:rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.2)}
.stars-on{position:absolute;left:0;top:0;overflow:hidden;color:var(--gold);width:0}
.rev{white-space:nowrap}
.verified{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--ink-2);text-align:center;margin:.6rem 0 0}
.urgency{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--terra);text-align:center;margin:.25rem 0 0;font-weight:500}
.card-carousel{width:85vw;max-width:20rem;flex:none;scroll-snap-align:start}
@media(min-width:1024px){.card-carousel{width:calc((100% - 2rem)/3);max-width:none}}
@media(min-width:1280px){.card-carousel{width:calc((100% - 3rem)/4)}}
/* featured tour: compact CTA band, icon tile / benefit + proof / outbound button */
.feature-row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.9rem 1.25rem;margin-top:2rem;padding:1.15rem 1.35rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:1px solid rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.38);background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.10);color:var(--ink);transition:background .15s,border-color .15s}
.feature-row:hover{background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.15);border-color:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.6);color:var(--ink)}
.feature-ic{flex:none;display:grid;place-items:center;width:3rem;height:3rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.28);color:var(--gold-dk)}
/* 11rem, not 18: a wider basis wraps the text to its own line before the button wraps,
   which strands the icon alone on a row at phone widths */
.feature-txt{flex:1 1 11rem;min-width:0}
.feature-row h3{font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .15rem}
.feature-row p{margin:0;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.45}
.feature-row .btn{flex:none;font-size:.95rem;padding:.65rem 1.1rem}
@media(max-width:520px){.feature-row .btn{width:100%}}

/* flex items must stretch, not size to content — `height:100%` on .card was
   defeating align-items:stretch and the four cards came out 480/506/516px. */
.carousel-track>.card{height:auto;align-self:stretch}
/* A carousel mixes card types (photo cards are .tall, entity cards are not), so the
   media height has to be pinned here or the row of images ends ragged. */
.card-carousel .card-media,.card-carousel .card-media.tall{height:14rem}
/* the block is an anchor target; keep the heading clear of the sticky header */
.tours-block{scroll-margin-top:6rem}
/* ---------- carousel ---------- */
.carousel{position:relative}
.carousel-track{display:flex;gap:1rem;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;scrollbar-width:none;padding:.35rem .25rem 1rem;margin:0 -.25rem}
.carousel-track::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.carousel-nav{display:none;justify-content:flex-end;gap:.5rem;margin-top:.25rem}
@media(min-width:1024px){.carousel.has-overflow .carousel-nav{display:flex}}
.car-btn{width:2.5rem;height:2.5rem;border-radius:50%;border:0;background:var(--card);box-shadow:var(--ring);display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;color:var(--ink-2);transition:box-shadow .15s ease-out,color .15s ease-out,scale .15s ease-out}
.car-btn:hover{box-shadow:var(--ring-hover);color:var(--ink)}
.car-btn:active{scale:.96}
.car-btn svg{width:1.1rem;height:1.1rem}
.car-btn:hover{border-color:var(--terra);color:var(--terra)}

/* ---------- tiles, qa, context, browse, authors ---------- */
.tile{display:block;padding:1.35rem 1.4rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm);transition:transform .2s,box-shadow .2s,border-color .2s}
.tile:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:var(--shadow-md);border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.35);color:var(--ink)}
.tile.tone-azulejo:hover{border-color:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.4)}
.tile.is-featured{background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.06);border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.45)}
.tile h3{font-size:1.15rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .5rem}
.tile p{font-size:.92rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:0;line-height:1.5}
.tile-ic{color:var(--terra);margin-bottom:.6rem}
/* photo tile: image inset inside the card, tinted by tone */
.tile.has-media{padding:1.4rem}
.tile.has-media.tone-terracotta{background:linear-gradient(148deg,rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.10),rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.02) 55%,rgba(var(--terra-rgb),0) 85%),var(--card)}
.tile.has-media.tone-azulejo{background:linear-gradient(148deg,rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.11),rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.025) 55%,rgba(var(--azul-rgb),0) 85%),var(--card)}
.tile-media{display:block;position:relative;aspect-ratio:16/9;overflow:hidden;border-radius:var(--r-lg);background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.08)}
.tile-media img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block;transition:transform .4s ease}
.tile-media::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;border-radius:inherit;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px rgba(var(--ink-rgb),.07);pointer-events:none}
.tile.has-media:hover .tile-media img{transform:scale(1.035)}
.tile.has-media .tile-body{display:block;padding:1.1rem 0 .1rem}
.tile.has-media h3{margin-bottom:.4rem}
/* row variant: square image to the left of the text */
.tile.has-media.tile-row{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:1.15rem;padding:1.15rem}
.tile-row .tile-media{flex:none;width:7.5rem;aspect-ratio:1}
.tile-row .tile-body{padding:0;min-width:0}
@media(max-width:420px){
  .tile.has-media.tile-row{gap:.9rem;padding:.9rem}
  .tile-row .tile-media{width:5.5rem}
}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.tile-media img{transition:none}.tile.has-media:hover .tile-media img{transform:none}}
.qa-cols{display:grid;gap:2rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:768px){.qa-cols{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.qa+.qa{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:2.5rem}}
.qa h3{font-size:1.3rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .75rem}
.qa p{color:var(--ink-2)}
.context{margin-top:3rem;padding-top:2rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.context h3{font-size:1.35rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .25rem}
.context .muted{margin-bottom:1.25rem}
/* context panel: bordered card, heading left / lede right */
.context-panel{padding:2rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r-2xl);background:var(--card);box-shadow:var(--shadow-sm)}
.context-panel .context-head{margin-bottom:1.4rem}
.context-panel .context-head h3{margin:0;text-wrap:balance}
.context-panel .context-head .muted{margin:0}
@media(min-width:768px){
  .context-panel{padding:2.25rem}
  .context-panel .context-head{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,.85fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:3rem;align-items:start;margin-bottom:1.75rem}
}
/* split variant: heading column beside the card row (dishes) */
.context-split{background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.05);border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.15);box-shadow:none}
.context-split .context-aside{margin-bottom:1.5rem}
.context-split .context-aside h3{margin:0 0 .5rem;text-wrap:balance}
.context-split .context-aside .muted{margin:0}
@media(min-width:1024px){
  .context-split{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,.5fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:2.5rem;align-items:start}
  .context-split .context-aside{margin-bottom:0}
}
.browse-grid{display:grid;gap:1rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}
@media(min-width:640px){.browse-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}}
@media(min-width:1024px){.browse-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(5,1fr)}}
.browse-tile{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.35rem;padding:1.25rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);transition:border-color .2s,box-shadow .2s,transform .2s}
.browse-tile:hover{border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4);box-shadow:var(--shadow-md);transform:translateY(-3px)}
.browse-tile b{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.15rem;font-weight:600;margin-top:.6rem}
.browse-tile .browse-n{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.browse-ic{display:grid;place-items:center;width:3rem;height:3rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);flex:none;transition:transform .2s}
.browse-ic .ic-md{color:inherit;width:1.5rem;height:1.5rem}
.browse-ic.tone-terracotta{background:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.12);color:var(--terra-dk)}
.browse-ic.tone-azulejo{background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.12);color:var(--azul)}
.browse-ic.tone-gold{background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.22);color:var(--gold-dk)}
.browse-tile:hover .browse-ic{transform:scale(1.06)}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.browse-tile:hover .browse-ic{transform:none}}
.authors-strip{padding:2.75rem 0 3rem;background:rgba(var(--warm-rgb),.6);border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);text-align:center}
.authors-kicker{margin:0 0 1.9rem;font-size:1.05rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.author-row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;gap:1.75rem 2.75rem}
.author-col{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;width:9.5rem;color:var(--ink)}
.author-col .avatar-lg{width:5rem;height:5rem;margin-bottom:.9rem}
/* two lines are reserved whether the name needs them or not, so a wrapping name does
   not push its beat out of line with the rest of the row */
.author-col b{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.25;min-height:2.5em;text-wrap:balance}
.author-col small{margin-top:.2rem;font-size:.85rem;line-height:1.35;color:var(--azul);text-wrap:balance}
.author-col:hover b{color:var(--terra-dk)}
.authors-cta{display:inline-block;margin-top:1.9rem;color:var(--terra-dk);font-weight:500}
.author-cards{display:grid;gap:1.25rem;margin:2rem 0}
.author-card{padding:1.5rem;border-radius:var(--r-xl);border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card)}
.author-card-head{display:flex;gap:1rem;align-items:center;margin-bottom:.75rem}
.author-card h2{font-size:1.35rem;font-weight:600;margin:0}
.work-grid{display:grid;gap:1.5rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:768px){.work-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}
.work-block h3{font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .5rem}
.work-list{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.work-list li{padding:.5rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.work-list a{font-weight:500}
.work-list p{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);margin:.15rem 0 0}
.faq-home .faq{margin:0}
/* homepage FAQ: the head is centred over the measure-width list, instead of running
   the full shell while the questions sit in a narrow column below it */
.faq-sec .section-head{display:block;text-align:center;max-width:var(--measure);margin-inline:auto}
.faq-sec .section-head .lede{max-width:40rem;margin-inline:auto}

/* ---------- walks, itineraries, ranked, stats ---------- */
.stops,.it-stops,.ranked,.steps{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.stop,.rank{display:flex;gap:1rem;padding:1.35rem 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.stop-n,.rank-n{width:2.25rem;height:2.25rem;border-radius:50%;background:var(--terra);color:#fff;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;flex:none}
.stop-body,.rank-body{flex:1;min-width:0}
.stop-head,.rank-head{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.5rem .75rem;margin-bottom:.5rem}
.stop-head h3,.rank-head h3{font-size:1.2rem;font-weight:600;margin:0}
.stop-time{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2);display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.3rem}
.stop-tip{font-size:.92rem;background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.12);border-left:3px solid var(--gold);padding:.6rem .9rem;border-radius:0 var(--r) var(--r) 0;margin:.5rem 0 0}
.rank-img{width:100%;height:12rem;object-fit:cover;border-radius:var(--r-lg);margin-bottom:.9rem}
.rank-why{font-size:.92rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.day{margin:3rem 0;scroll-margin-top:9rem}
.day-head{display:flex;gap:1rem;align-items:center;margin-bottom:1.25rem}
.day-n{padding:.35rem .85rem;border-radius:999px;background:var(--azul);color:#fff;font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;font-size:.9rem;flex:none}
.day-head h2{font-size:1.7rem;font-weight:600}
.day-head .muted{margin:0}
.day .fig{margin:0 0 1.25rem}
.it-stop{display:grid;grid-template-columns:5.5rem 1fr;gap:1rem;padding:1.1rem 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.it-time{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:600;color:var(--azul)}
.it-stop h3{font-size:1.15rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .35rem}
.it-stop p{margin:0 0 .35rem}
@media(max-width:480px){.it-stop{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:.25rem}}
.stats{display:grid;gap:1rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}
@media(min-width:640px){.stats{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr)}}
.stats div{padding:1.25rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);text-align:center}
.stats b{display:block;font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:2rem;color:var(--terra);line-height:1}
.stats span{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.steps li{padding:1rem 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);counter-increment:step}
.steps li h3{font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 .35rem}
.steps li h3::before{content:counter(step) ". ";color:var(--terra)}
.before{padding:1.5rem;border-radius:var(--r-lg);background:rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.05);border:1px solid rgba(var(--azul-rgb),.2)}
.before ul{margin-bottom:0}
.pagination{display:flex;gap:.5rem;justify-content:center;margin:2rem 0}

/* ---------- search ---------- */
.search-form{display:flex;gap:.5rem;margin-top:1.5rem;max-width:40rem}
.search-form input{flex:1;padding:.8rem 1rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);font:inherit;background:var(--card)}
.search-form input:focus{outline:2px solid rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4);border-color:var(--terra)}
.search-results{margin:1rem 0 2rem;display:grid;gap:.75rem}
.sr-item{padding:1rem 1.25rem;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r-lg);background:var(--card);display:block;color:var(--ink)}
.sr-item:hover{border-color:rgba(var(--terra-rgb),.4)}
.sr-item b{display:block;font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.1rem}
.sr-item small{color:var(--terra);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase}
.sr-item p{margin:.25rem 0 0;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.popular{margin:1rem 0 3rem}

/* Keyboard focus. Measured before this: the browser default
   `outline: auto 1px rgb(16,16,16)` was the ONLY focus affordance on the
   whole site, and it disappears against dark hero photos. */
:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--terra);outline-offset:2px;border-radius:var(--r)}
.card:focus-visible,.walk-row:focus-visible,.faq-item summary:focus-visible,
.tile:focus-visible,.vl-card:focus-visible{outline:none;box-shadow:var(--focus)}
.btn:focus-visible,.pill:focus-visible,.car-btn:focus-visible{outline:none;box-shadow:var(--focus)}
/* on photo heroes the ring needs the light side of the pair */
.hero-photo :focus-visible,.media-shade ~ * :focus-visible{outline-color:#fff}

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.site-footer{margin-top:4rem;background:var(--chalk-warm);border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.95rem}
.foot-grid{display:grid;gap:2rem;padding-top:3rem;padding-bottom:2rem;grid-template-columns:1fr}
@media(min-width:768px){.foot-grid{grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr}}
.foot-brand p{color:var(--ink-2);max-width:26rem;margin:1rem 0}
.foot-social{font-weight:500}
.foot-col h3{font-size:.8rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;font-family:var(--font-body);color:var(--ink);margin-bottom:.75rem}
.foot-col ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.foot-col li{margin-bottom:.45rem}
.foot-col a{color:var(--ink-2)}
.foot-col a:hover{color:var(--terra)}
.foot-legal{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;gap:.75rem 2rem;padding-top:1.25rem;padding-bottom:1.5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-2)}
.foot-legal p{margin:0}
.foot-legal div{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:1.25rem}
.foot-legal a{color:var(--ink-2)}
.foot-legal a:hover{color:var(--terra)}
/* P19: motion is never the only feedback channel — under reduced motion the
   colour/shadow cue stays and only the displacement is removed. Killing the
   transition alone would leave the card *jumping* -3px instantly. */
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  *{transition:none!important;animation:none!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}
  .card:hover,.card:active,.walk-row:active,.btn:active,.pill:active,
  .car-btn:active,.card:hover .card-media img{transform:none!important;scale:1!important}
}

.stale-note{margin-top:.75rem;padding:.7rem .9rem;border-radius:.5rem;background:rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.10);border:1px solid rgba(var(--gold-rgb),.35);color:var(--gold-dk);font-size:.9rem;line-height:1.5}
.stale-note .ic-xs{vertical-align:-.1em;margin-right:.35rem}